Riesling

Riesling

Riesling is assumed to have descended from a wild vine of the Rhine Valley, and may have been described by Pliny as early as the first century.  It was likely domesticated during the Middle Ages and its first written appearance was as “riesslingen” in 1435.

By 1477 it had reached Alsace and for the next four centuries spread throughout the Rhine and Mosel Valleys to corners of Italy, Austria and the Balkans.  It arrived in California around 1857, in Washington around 1871 and in Australia around 1880. It remains today by far most prevalently planted in Germany.  A genetically stable vine, its clonal variations strongly resemble each other.

Riesling requires a relatively cool climate and extended growing season to fully develop its aromas and flavors, which are lost if the fruit matures too early, as it will in too warm a microclimate.  It buds late and is highly resistant to frost, and is potentially extremely prolific.

Deep, well drained, sandy clay and loam soils on sheltered, sunny slopes suit it best, but the variety’s adaptability and exceptional propensity to reflect its soil produce a wide palette of nuances from different mineral profiles in different microclimates, notably the classic Mosel slate.  The vine’s compact bunches of small, relatively thin skinned berries make is subject to rot in cold, damp conditions.  The fruit is highly aromatic, floral and high in extract, with a crystalline, piercing acidity.

Riesling is rarely blended with other grapes, as it is in itself entirely complete when deftly cultivated. It may be vinified bone dry, semi-sweet or sweet; as a still or sparkling wine; as a late-harvest wine; as a botrytized wine, in which overripe grapes are attacked by a fungus also responsible for Sauternes ; and as an ice wine, produced from frozen grapes.

Germany is conceded to bring Riesling to its highest expression, in wines produced from selected bunches (“Auslese”), selected berries (“Beerenauslese”), selected botrytized berries (“Trockenbeerenauslese”) or frozen berries (“Eiswein”).  Alsace follows closely with the steeliest dry Rieslings as well as similar late-harvest and botrytized wines.  Many of the nearly dry wines intentionally have a bit of residual, to balance the naturally high acidity.

Riesling is strongly marked by sublime, refined, vibrant flavors and aromas suggestive of peaches, apricots and white fruit with floral and citrus blossom notes.  Depending on soil, it may show nuances of slate, earthiness, tar or smoke, and with age, hints of kerosene. Liquorous versions add honey, citrus peel, raisins and almond notes.  On the palate, Riesling is assertively distinctive yet elegant, with superb balance, complexity and ethereal acidic vividness.  Also grown in Australia, New Zealand, Canada, California, the Pacific Northwest and the Slavic countries of eastern Europe.